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Водопад Виктория с высоты полета ангелов. Полет над вулканами
Автор: Юрий Бриль   
22 Мая 2012

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Водопад Виктория

Продолжение. Начало в разделе «Путевые заметки»

Должен сказать, я разочаровался в своем друге Canon. Я был в самом красивом месте на земле, а он не в силах был отобразить, выдавал жалкие тени божественной и неповторимой природы – луна, отраженная на грязном бутылочном осколке. Фотографировать текучую воду бесполезное занятие. Запечатлеть мгновение ничего не значит – другое дело, сотни, тысячи мгновений, нанизанные одно на другое. Струение мгновений, нескончаемая динамика жизни, завораживающая чурли-журль!

v1 Серега включил большую телекамеру, и она, надо отдать ей должное, честно отображала, что видела. Объектив правильный, рисовал смачно, видел далеко. Однако и Серега испытывал некоторое разочарование. Для полноты его кинематографического счастья не хватало штатива. Штатив у нас был, настоящий, киношный, большой, тяжелый. Мы с ним таскались по всей Африке, как кот с примусом, пока не оставили в Танзании, в отеле города Дар-эс-Салам. Через месяц разлуки мы встретились с нашим дорогим штативом – нам его торжественно вручили, когда мы снова устроились в том же самом отеле, но это потом. А нужен он был сейчас.

У меня уже чесалось под лопатками выравстали крылышки,

и я уже представлял, как мы с ужасающейся стремительностью летим над рекой по узкому каньону, взмываем перед грохочущей стеной воды, и, приняв на себя освежающий душ, поднимаемся в облаке мельчайших капелек и еще выше, чтобы оглядеться и увидеть, какая она Африка. 

Обломали – от дельтаплана пришлось отказаться. Снимать во время полета запрещено из соображения безопасности. Пришлось удовлетвориться вертолетом, за который мы заплатили 420 баксов. И это всего за 12 минут полета. Вертолет – дорогое удовольствие. Наш Ми-8, для сравнения, сегодня стоит 150 тыс. рублей в час. А в советские времена, когда экономика была экономной, – час полета оценивался всего-то в 800 рублей. Компанией заправляли выходцы из ЮАР, что удивило, белые, немецкого происхождения. Геликоптер был вчетверо меньше нашей «восьмерки», кабина из прозрачного пластика, к тому же можно было снимать из открытого окна. Мы установили камеры, и ровно в восемь стартовали. Поднялись метров на восемьсот и сделали большой круг над водопадом. Снизились и сели. Прошло 11 минут 45 секунд. Я сидел и думал: «Как, и это все?!» Я и сейчас удивляюсь, насколько мы были великодушны, что не стали требовать вернуть деньги за 15 недолетанных секунд.

Я слишком многого хотел от полета. А это был обычный рутинный полет. Ангелы, наверно, смеялись, наблюдая его! Тупо, по-немецки, сделали круг и приземлись. Конечно, с высоты мы увидели

Замбези это не так мало. К реке не подъехать, и подойти не так просто. Подойдешь – и всякий раз видишь небольшой фрагмент, частный план, который дает весьма приблизительное представление о целом. А тут она, великая Замбези, на много миль перед глазами: голубые протоки, зеленые острова, целый мир, затерянный в черном (на самом-то деле, не черном, скорее, красном – цвет  выжженной солнцем глины) континенте

v4

… Увидели сам водопад с разных сторон, гигантские разломы в земной коре… Собственно говоря, пересказывать в подробностях – значит соревноваться с Серегиной камерой. Нет, леди и джентльмены, тут я пасую,  – лучше смотрите его видяшку.

Полет над вулканами: Авачинским, Козельским и Корякским

 

Мне вспоминались другие полеты. Малую авиацию я любил по своей журналисткой молодости и осваивал основательно. Достаточно подробно облетал Ямал, Чукотку, да и весь Дальний Восток. Поэтому, знаю, что говорю. Есть обычный перелет:

вылетел из пункта А, приземлился в пункт Б. Есть просто лежащие камни, а есть японский сад камней. Понимаете, к чему я клоню? Не тупое немецкое передвижение в геликоптере по воздуху, а полет как искусство! Об одном таком полете расскажу. Это было давно, в те времена, когда еще «зенит» считался неплохим фотоаппаратом.

Не знаю, су

v1

ществует ли сейчас этот полет, давно не был на Камчатке. Думаю, можно заказать, но это будет стоить немалых денег. А тогда этот полет был устроен от широты дальневосточной души, для дорогих гостей, устроивших в Петропавловске литературное мероприятие. Гости и в сам


адежду местных литераторов.
ом деле были достойные: литературовед Владимир Яковлевич Локшин, гений сценографии Давид Боровский, работавший в Театре На Таганке, художник Татьяна Сельвинская и замутивший все это мероприятие театральный деятель Владимир Оренов. Ну и нас несколько молодых якобы подающих н

   Полет вокруг вулканов – завершающий аккорд программы. Предыдущим был банкет. Утром, слегка опохмелившись, выдвинулись в аэропорт Елизово и загрузились в нашу добрую и старую четырехкрылую «Аннушку».

 

Поднялись сколько-то, отдались ветру, отлетели фанерой к океану, тянули кромкой берега, повторяя изгибы бухт и бухточек. Накатывала волна, рокотала, глуша, стрекотание мотора. Над водой кружили чайки, реял крыло к нашему крылу альбатрос. Похоже, наши летуны забыли о вулканах. Не долетев до сопки, набрали высоту и взору открылась желтая по осени тундра, и не было ей ни конца ни краю. Мы увидели речку Паратунку, с зарослями жимолости и шиповника по берегам. Снизились к ней, поприветствовали, прострекотав вдоль русла, от винта пошла рябь, видно было, как в воде, испугавшись самолетной тени, стрельнула наутек, взблеснула серебром, рыбья стая.

Это был пролог полетного сюжета, самое начало. Прежде, чем подняться над вулканами, надо было оглядеться, отметить уровни моря и тундры.

Сначала исследовали самое основание горного массива, потом поднялись несколько выше, отчетливо видны были скалы, расцвеченные лишайником. Время от времени отлетали в сторону, удалялись, будто поняв всю безнадежность затеи, но в итоге для того, чтобы охватить взглядом всю панораму. Вот дотянули до вершины Козельского. Ну и круча! А Авачинский и Корякский еще выше, гордые и неприступные под шапками сн

v2

егов. И снова с яростной силой наш самолетик нарезал спираль вкруг горного массива, пока не преодолел некий невероятно трудный барьер и не приподнялся над Авачинским и Корякским. Мы еще отлетали в сторону – тут, за облаками, были намечены известные только нашим летунам пути-до

роги и находились точки, с которых надо было смотреть на вулканы, чтобы увидеть их во всей славе и красоте.

В руках «зенит» со слайдовой пленкой «originalwolfen», всего 36 кадров… Зависли над самым жерлом Авачинского, дымятся фумаролы. Вулкан дышит через них, похрапывая; жар идет от раскаленных выбросов магмы. Слышно, как бьется сердце самой Земли, пахнуло сернистым газом. Вершинное состояние, которое я испытал, не забыть.

И вот сейчас перебирая архивы, я нашел чудом сохранившиеся несколько слайдов. Они порядком выцвели, и совсем не соответствуют картинам, что сохранились у меня в памяти. 

 

 

 

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