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Как я был масаем
Автор: Юрий Бриль   
20 Марта 2012

massai-mama

У каждого масая есть тога. Модный цвет – в клетку. У каждого мужика-масая есть копье или палка. Каждому порядочному мужику-масаю пристало носить сандалии.

У меня была тога в синюю клеточку, у меня было копье. У меня еще не было сандалий, ходил в кроссовках, но я намеревался изладить себе сандалии, такие же, как у настоящих масаев. Возьму старую автомобильную шину, вырежу подошву по размеру, привяжу веревочки.

У каждого масая есть масайка. У меня нет масайки, поэтому я еще не масай. У порядочного масая две, три, насколько его растащит, жен-масаек. Хочешь больше жен, разводи больше скота, такое правило. Если ты масай, то пасти овец и коз – твоя мужская работа. У каждого масая есть глиняная хижина. У порядочного масая столько хижин, сколько жен плюс еще одна, своя отдельная личная. Жилищной проблемой масай не озабочен. Каждая порядочная жена-масайка сама строит жилище. Как птица вьет и лепит гнездо, так и жена-масайка вьет и лепит хижину. Принесет из саванны веток, сплетет из них стены и крышу, замесит глину пополам с навозом, обмажет плетень. Солнце припечет и завершит работу – крепкий станет домик и звонкий – живи – на твой век хватит. А можешь откочевать в другое место, масайская жена совьет и слепит тебе другую хижину. И, как птица, она будет делать это с удовольствием, напевая песню о том, какая она хорошая масайская жена и как она любит мужа-масая: «А-ниа-на-а-на-а…»

 

ura-i-massaiобычная масайская хижина – глиняная ракушка, закругленный коридор и круглое помещение с лежанкой, на которую брошена овечья шкура. Нет дверей и окон, если не считать дырку в полдюйма  окошком. Через эту дырку проходит лучик света достаточный для того, чтобы масай не озирался в кромешной тьме, а различал силуэт своей масайки и лежанку при том.

Этого скромного освещения было, между прочим, достаточно, чтобы Серега запечатлел масайку  на свою камеру. Она сидела на лежанке, открыто кормила грудью младенца и пела. И пела она о том, какая она хорошая мама и какой у нее славный сынок-масаенок: «А-на-а-ни-а-а…»  А я смотрел на нее и думал, почему я не масай, и почему эта женщина не моя масайка, и эта кроха у нее на руках не мой масаенок?

 Серега спросил:

- А не хотел ли ты здесь остаться?

И я, не выходя из состояния глубокой задумчивости, автоматически сказал:

- Да.

Вот уже целый день щеголяю в масайской тоге. Хожу и удивляюсь, почему мне такой вопрос не задает вождь племени Наныоги. Я бы и ему сказал «да».

 Вождь Наныоги не спрашивал - он приглядывался ко мне. Прикидывал, что я могу дать его народу и ему лично, и каким еще испытаниям меня подвергнуть. Но если он хочет по-настоящему меня испытать, почему не посылает в саванну убить льва, как это издавна водилось у детей Моомби и как требовал воинственный бог Нгаи. Вождь Наныоги видел мою решимость в глазах и копье, которое я крепко держал в руке. Но он не посылал меня в саванну убить льва.

 Очевидно, потому, что у него не было лицензии.

 Вождь Наныоги взмахнул палкой, и по его повелению племя выстроилось в колонну, и я тоже встал посредине, как масай среди масаев, готовый ко всяким испытаниям и к самому обряду инициации. Колонна двинулась вперед, и путь этой колонны был замысловато змеист, мы прошли меж глиняных хижин, трижды петлей, вышли из деревни, окружили ее и снова вошли и, образовав круг, остановились.

 Женщины-масайки запели. Как-то сразу, без разогрева. Азартно и весело. И тотчас всех повело танцевать – смысл этого танца был прост, как правда: «Какие мы масаи – крепкие ребята, даже льва завалить, нам ничего не стоит».

Ко мне подошла масайка и потянула в круг. Она была неподражаемо красива, стриженая почти под нуль плюшевая голова, передние зубки тычком вперед, белые как у шиншиллы, а губы большие, пухлые – и никакого силикона.

 ura-i-massai-womensИ я пошел за ней, и, как настоящий масай, танцевал масайский танец, и все племя радовалось, глядя на меня. Будто дождь грянул на саванну после долгого сухостоя. Мне было сподручно танцевать, потому что танцевал уже, помнится, с эскимосами и чукчами такие замечательные танцы как «Ворон» и «Евражка». И это было по сути одно и то же.

 А Серега не танцевал. Потому что он не хотел стать масаем, не хотел потому, что ему не нужна была масайка, потому что в его сердце давно была прописана Лена, его жена, причем одна.

К тому же он чокнутый кинематографист, и ему позарез как надо было снимать на камеру этот неподражаемый танец.

 Очевидно, танец и был первым испытанием, которое придумал для меня вождь. Всем нравилось, как я лихо притоптываю, и думаю, первую часть испытаний я с честью выдержал.

 Но дальше по ходу дела в круг начали выходить масаи и прыгать высоко вверх. Первым вышел в круг долговязый вождь Наныоги и подпрыгнул на такую немыслимую высоту, что я даже испугался: не разбился бы, приземляясь. Да и другие масаи тоже оказались на редкость прыгучие.

 И вот пришел черед прыгнуть мне. Я подпрыгнул, мне показалось даже и неплохо, а они засмеялись, просто покатились со смеху. Масаи лишний раз убедились, что только настоящие масаи умеют прыгать высоко. Шансы, что меня оставят в племени, резко свелись к нулю. Танец продолжался, масаи  демонстрировали свои умения.

- Ладно, сказал я, а такое можете, или вам слабо?!

И я им показал танец,такого танца они отродясь не видали. Между тем, он известен на Руси с незапамятных времен, и называется «в присядку». Селяне пляшут его повсеместно и с большой охотой. Нечего делать – пляшут. Работа стоит – все равно пляшут. Пляшут до тех пор, пока не упадут. Случается, замертво.

mamapapa-i-Sereja

Когда наконец танцевальная часть закончилась, ко мне подошел вождь Наныоги, ведя за руку красавицу масайку, ту самую с плюшевой головой. Вождь ткнул в меня пальцем и объявил:

– Папа.

Потом  указал на масайку:

– Мама.

Он произнес эти слова на языке суахили, но что удивительно, они так же звучат и по-русски, стало быть, мы из одного корня, прачеловеческая Ева у нас общая, суть одна, несмотря на всю черно-белую разницу.  Да, леди и джентльмены, получалось, он принял меня в масаи. Я – масай! Потому что у меня есть масайка, потому что мне ее дал вождь, потому что я… Я был готов по-масайски высоко подпрыгнуть от радости.

–        Кстати, – сказал вождь Наныоги теперь уже по-английски, – а как насчет того, чтобы дать моему народу баксов?

–        А?.. – сказал я и вышел из состояния глубокой задумчивости.

Джип уже тарахтел, все было готово к отъезду. Масайский прикид я оставил, а вот копье привез домой. Пригодится, мало ли…

Кстати, друзья, если вы как я любите путешествовать самостоятельно, или мечтаете об этом, но все никак не решаетесь наконец отправиться в путь, то смело пишите нам по этому нашему почтовому ящику:   Этот e-mail адрес защищен от спам-ботов, для его просмотра у Вас должен быть включен Javascript

Мы поможем вам сделать первый шаг к исполнению вашей мечты. А то всю жизнь можно промечтать и что? И ничего. То-то же...

 

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