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Автор: Юрий Бриль   
12 Января 2015

Ах, Сальта!..

Серега проводил меня, посадив в автобус до Мендозы – это уже Аргентина. Там я перескочил в автобус до Сальты. Дальше

следовало пилить до границы с Боливией, пересечь эту загадочную страну и проехать по Перу до Куско. Есть и другой путь: до Арики, дальше – на Такну, где имеется переход из Чили в Перу. Мне все же хотелось через Боливию, куда ушла и где намеревалась раствориться Сильвия. Впрочем, следует упомянуть и третий путь: нормальные люди добираются до Куско самолетом.

Ах, Сальта! Сальта! – город-сказка, один из красивейших на земле, наполненный веселым фольклором, песнями и танцами. В таком городе хочется жить, особенно если в кармане шуршат песо. Что-то я поздно спохватился – надо было срочно разменять баксы.

salta

В самом центре, на площади «9 июля», у закрытого обменного пункта стоял меняла, к которому я и направился, но вдруг заменжевался – в непосредственной близости от него паслась мухера-полицейская. Читал в интернете, что бывают облавы, подставы и будто бы даже есть суровая статья в УК Аргентины за нелегальный обмен валюты. По большей части интернетовская инфа недостоверная, если речь идет о таких дальних странах как Аргентина, однако я не настолько самоуверенный, чтоб начисто все отметать. Остановился в нерешительности, как бы разглядывая памятник Альваресу.

– Ду ю вонт ту эксченж ту хандрид долля? – меняла сам подошел ко мне. Видимо, у меня на лбу бегущей строкой высвечивалось, сколько мне надо песо для полного счастья.

Подстава или нет? Как узнать? Только опытным путем. На виду у прохожих, на глазах у полиции, под прицельными взглядами замерших в камне Хуана Антонио Альвареса и 14-ти муз олицетворяющих 14 провинций Аргентины, в самом центре Сальты, на площади «9 июля», я разменял 200 баксов по курсу 11.

Президента Аргентины Кристину Элизабет Фернандес де Киршнер оппозиция критикуют за отсутствие продуманной экономической политики. Ну нет этой политики – зато есть вино и стейки. И еще как сторонний наблюдатель отмечу: красотка Киршнер создала все условия, для того, чтобы народу жилось интересно. Интрига в том, что никто не знает, какой завтра будет курс, и аргентинцы все поголовно играют в чендж – меняют песо на доллары и обратно. Мы тоже приобщились к этой занимательной игре. С кем только не играли! В Буэнос Айресе мы расписали чендж на 2 тысячи баксов с одной азартной старушенцией. В банке курс 8,5, а мы ей втюхали по 12. Что интересно, сеньоры, деньги, как вам уже известно, украдены, однако гордость за результат осталась, переполняет и продолжает тешить наше самолюбие.

Вечером перед автобусом я еще посидел в кафе, связался по скайпу с Серегой. Он, как и намеревался, совершенствовал испанский. В хостеле проходили практику девчонки из Франции, совершенствуя свой испанский. Они также были не прочь сделать первые шаги в изучении русского и поболтать на английском. Днем он шатался по городу, слушал уличных музыкантов, посещал музеи, погружаясь в доколумбовскую цивилизацию, вечером готовил себе ужин, садился с бутылочкой в патио и смотрел в небо из каменного колодца на чужие звезды. И однажды сверху, разглядев его одинокую фигурку, снизошел, спустился на его стол, сизокрылый голубь. Серега угостил птицу рисом и хлебными крошками. На следующий день голубь снова прилетел. Они подружились. Серега назвал сизаря Карлосом в честь нашего амиго из деревни Путре.

В стране высокой духовности

Еще было темно, когда автобус закончил свой маршрут в городке Якуиба. Терминал представлял собой сарайчик с окошечком кассы. Я спросил у кассира, где la frontera (граница)? Он махнул за левое плечо. Городок спал, и я пробирался к границе чуть ли не наощупь. Желательно было уточнить направление. К счастью, я увидел одиноко светившийся фонарь и загадочный силуэт, прислоненный к стене одноэтажного кирпичного строения, золотисто взблеснувшую струйку. Подойдя, я извинился и спросил, где-таки граница? Сеньор что-то промычал, струйка несколько изменила направление и, упорно дробя кирпичную кладку, однозначно указывала, что данное строение и есть иммиграционный офис и что граница – тута. Я обошел дом и увидел небольшую очередь ненормальных, желающих пересечь границу Боливии.

Мы – друзья. У нас много общего. Они, как и мы, встали с колен, мы вместе дружим против американцев. Но что-то, сеньоры, я вдруг засомневался в искренности дружеских отношений, когда иммиграционный офицер попросил с меня за визу 50 баксов, а взял 60, сдав со стольника только 40. Передо мной в очереди стояла девчонка из Эстонии – где эта страна, найдите на карте?! – и этой свиристелке он сказал «велком» и денег не взял.  Вот она цена нашей дружбе – 60 баксов.

Городок Якуиба со стороны Боливии оказался не таким уж и маленьким. Я в нем провел полдня, бродил по улицам, шерстяным альпачьим рынкам, магазинам, приглядывался к прохожим к торговкам. Сильвия не выходила из головы, я полагал, что она уже в Боливии, и если повезет, я ее встречу. Вероятность встречи была ничтожна. Страна не такая уж маленькая, и никто не подскажет, где искать человека без паспорта и вне закона. Вот так, с фонарем средь бела дня… Но ведь бывало, у меня случались чудесные совпадения, нежданно-радостные встречи. Потом, переехав в Ла-Пас, я с той же маниакальной упорностью заглядывал под широкополые шляпы в лица боливийских женщин, порой основательно смущая их.

Изучив таким образом население нескольких боливийских городов, я получил исчерпывающее представление о стране. Высокая духовность, которую провозгласил президент Боливии Эво Моралес, сказывалась во всем: в обилии попрошаек, зазывал и отсутствии туалетов. Никаких сомнений, потомки племен аймара, бороро и тупи-гуарани построят социализм, свой особенный индейско-марксистский. Мы не смогли, а у них получится. Ибо их высокая духовность настояна на священных листьях коки. Работать по 15 часов и быть высокодуховным, можно только жуя листья коки. Наш национальный сорокаградусный напиток на поверку оказался не таким эффективным.

К вопросу о менталитете

В боливийском иммиграционном офисе мне поставили штампик «Выбыл», в перуанском – шлепнули «Прибыл». Считая, что формальности закончены, я поспешил обратно в автобус, но вскоре проводник выкрикнул мою фамилию и сказал, что требуется пройти еще полицейский досмотр. Это было что-то новенькое.

Для начала мордастый полицейский меня тщательно обшмонал. Достав из моего кармана бумажник и пристально глядя мне в глаза, строго спросил:

– Сколько у вас денег?

– Вот столько, – показал я, немного раздвинув пальцы, большой и указательный. Странный вопрос. Я никогда не знаю, сколько у меня точно денег. Знаю приблизительно, и этого мне достаточно. Мордастый требовал, чтобы я сказал точно. – Это я вам сказать не смогу, и никакой русский не скажет, сколько точно, до копеечки, у него в кармане денег – менталитет такой. У нас даже президент не знает, какую зарплату он себе положил. – Мордастый открыл мой бумажник и сам, грязными пальцами, стал пересчитывать мои деньги. – Мы в России, – попенял я ему, – никогда такой фигней не занимаемся – обычно складываем купюры в стопку и замеряем линейкой. 

Мордастый продолжал выполнять свою поганую работу. Понятно, подумал я, будут грабить. Ладно, зато по Боливии проехал без проблем, а предыдущий автобус остановила вооруженная банда – и дальше пассажиры уже ехали налегке.

Полицейский держал в руке мой бумажник, поднимая и опуская его перед моим носом, как бы взвешивая, и задавал обычные вопросы, откуда я и с какой целью пожаловал в Перу.

–  Отдай хотя бы кредитную карточку, – попросил я его.

– Это твой амиго? – он не услышал моей унизительной просьбы и указал на американского туриста, которого шмонали еще тщательнее, заставив раздеться и снять сэнделы.

– Нет, – открестился я, – с этим сеньором я не знаком.

Он еще раз взвесил в руке мой кошелек и вдруг протянул его мне. Я прямо ошалел от счастья. Выйдя из ментовки, я утолил жажду, купив у торговки на остававшиеся монеты боливиано два стакана апи морано (кукурузный напиток с ананасом и пряностями).

 Подходя к автобусу, я обратил внимание на стайку собак, они пересекали границу совершенно беспрепятственно. И ворона перелетела из Боливии в Перу, а другая – обратно. Я позавидовал животным – они достигли такого уровня свободы, до которого нам, так называемым гомо-сапиенсам, предстоит еще долго-долго эволюционировать.

 

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