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Охота на львов в Нгоро-Нгоро
Автор: Юрий Бриль   
11 Марта 2012

ТанзанияНа этот раз за рулем «лендровера» был Эндрю, парень малосимпатичный, хотя и знающий свое дело, к нему еще прилагался повар Ибрагим. В Танзании действует строгое правило: на территорию парка разрешен въезд только на машине турфирмы. Делать нечего, нашли такую. Их достаточно много в Моши. Далеко не со всеми можно иметь дело. Легко ошибиться в выборе и получить услуги не в том объеме, который был обещан. Как раз такую и выбрали. Но обиды не держим, могло быть и хуже.

rhinocerosМой друг – чокнутый кинематографист. Но не на столько, чтобы соревноваться с BBC. Би-би-си здесь прописано. Все что можно, уже отснято. Потрясающий план, который длится несколько секунд, где лев, например, гонится за антилопой и заваливает ее, стоит месяцев неусыпного охотничьего бдения. Мы могли рассчитывать только на удачу. А какой охотник на нее не рассчитывает?!

Выехали задолго до рассвета, еще в темноте поднимались на гору. Подъем был долгий и местами достаточно крутой. С первыми лучами солнца мы достигли 3 тыс. метров и заглянули в кратер вулкана, теперь предстояло спуститься вниз, в кальдеру, на 610 метров.  Эндрю остановился у смотровой площадки и с нескрываемой гордостью за родные места объявил:
Кратер Нгоро-Нгоро – самый большой в мире.
– Не кизди, гайд, – сказал Серега. – Самый большой кратер – Махтеш Рамон, и находится он в Израиле.
– Сам не физди, тур! Где там? Израиль – маленькая страна.
– Пустыня Негев – не такая уж и маленькая.

А на Килиманджаро нам скажут, что самый большой в мире кратер – Кибо. Никому нельзя верить. Пока сам с рулеткой не пройдешь, не замеришь… Так вот, я сравнил: кратер Кибо – 5 кв. км. Нгоро-Нгоро – 265, Махтеш Рамон – 360. Серега прав, Махтеш и есть самый большой на планете – я его за три дня не сумел обойти. А кстати, есть еще кальдеры затопленные океаном. Кто их измерил?
– Ученые предполагают, что раньше гора возвышалась на 9 тыс. с лишним метров и была самой большой на Земле, но 250 млн. лет назад вулкан взорвался…
Меня всегда это умиляет: «ученые предполагают». Как это проверить, что там было миллионы лет назад? – Ладно-ладно,– похлопал я Эндрю по плечу. – Верим.

Кратер и в самом деле – взглядом не окинешь. Дно его представляло равнину с лугами и лесами, живописным озером Магади и петляющей по кругу кратера речкой, впадающей в это озеро.

Мы медленно спускались вниз, на дно кратера; когда спустились, окончательно рассвело. Уже на склоне мы увидели пантеру, а это уже удача. Въехали в тенистый лес, и нас приветствовали слоны, завтракавшие сосисками. Благословенная Африка! Что там хлебное дерево?! – вот они сосиджтри – сосиски свисают с деревьев. Отламывай и ешь. Эти сосиски с удовольствием уплетают слоны, жирафы, обезьяны, и я хотел попробовать, но Эндрю сказал, что уважающие себя африканцы такое не едят. У слонов мы не задержались, насмотрелись на них в парке Тарангире. Ехали довольно быстро… все куда-то торопились: перебежали дорогу гиены, впереди трусил шакаленок, просвистела над нами кодла стервятников. Приехали…

NgorongoroTanzaniaAfricaleodinner-of-leoВы не поверите – лев, огромный гривастый львище, потрошил антилопу прямо у дороги. Несчастная еще дергалась в предсмертных судорогах. Положив на нее лапы, он хватал ее зубами, разрезая шкуру и вырывая кровоточащий шмат плоти. Охотники глазели. Машин было сравнительно немного, и мы заняли удобную позицию, Серега поставил камеру, я щелкал фотоаппаратом. Помимо охотников за трапезой наблюдали еще десятки заинтересованных глаз. На дереве сидела стая грифов, неподалеку в траве, роняя слюну, устроились гиены – ждали своего часа. А нахальный шакаленок не ждал, подкрадывался, хватал зубами тушу, норовя оторвать кусок. Но достаточно было одного взгляда льва, чтобы тот отскакивал, как ошпаренный. Марабу исполняла на тонких коленками назад ногах-палочках танец «И хочется, и колется». Вперед несколько шагов – назад, вперед – назад. В какой-то момент звериное урчащее начало взяло верх над страхом – вот он в клюве заветный кусок. Сглатывает, давясь. Несколько грифов слетели с дерева на траву: э-э, а как же мы? По мере того как лев насыщался, вся эта хищная братия вела себя наглее. Шакаленку удалось оторвать свой кусок, грифы тоже в обиде не остались. Мы возвращались назад по этой же дороге – пир к тому времени закончился, чисто подобрали, даже рогов от антилопы не осталось.

Выехали из леса, распахнулась просторная саванна, желтая в это зимнее время года, только у речки зеленела трава. В болоте паслись бегемоты – пусть себе пасутся, не подъехать. Поглядели издали, а потом гонялись за черными носорогами, пока не настигли одного из этих редчайших реликтовых животных и не начали мочить со всех имеющихся камер в упор. А потом несколько часов пробивались сквозь плотное стадо зебр, антилоп гну и буйволов – пыль от копыт, звериный дух, охотничий азарт, без счета планы, кадры…
– Стоп, а где наш ланч?.. Зажилил, Ибрагим?
– Тсс…Будет ланч… – Эндрю остановил машину у речки.
Тут уже стоял джип. В нем англичане, мен и юная вумен. Мы у западного отвесного края кратера, скалы, деревья и кусты, птички поют, щебечут. Хорошее местечко ланч устроить.
– Лаен!
leo-cl.up– Лаен, лаен, что я льва не видел? Жрать давай!
Львица сидела в траве на берегу речки. Она была так близко, что можно было рассмотреть мух сидящих на ее морде. Рассмотрел, может, хватит? Тут я увидел еще одну львицу, она спустилась к речке, попила воды, поднялась на берег, уселась и вперила на меня свой прямой желтый взгляд. А потом еще одну, которая тоже неотрывно смотрела на нас. Поодаль под корнями огромного дерева я увидел логово и двух львят, которые там барахтались в свое удовольствие. Какое-то время я с удовольствием за ними наблюдал.
– Смотри! – толкнул меня Серега.

Под джипом англичан лежали львы, аж пять штук. Смешно даже стало. Но Серега был серьезен и показывал пальцем вниз. Я глянул за борт нашего джипа – и отпрянул – под нашей машиной тоже лежали две львицы. Со всех сторон на нас смотрели львы. Львы, львы, львы… Что им от нас надо? Эй, лаенсы!.. Оборзели, вам что антилоп мало?
– Ты любишь овсянку? – мрачно спросил Серега.
– Люблю, – кивнул я.

Продолжение в разделе "путевые заметки"

–  А если тебя пичкать этой овсянкой каждый день по три раза?.. Как думаешь, разнообразие в питании что-то значит?

 


 

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