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Книги о путешествиях

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Книга для тех, кто любит путешествовать, все равно с рюкзаком или в своем воображении, открывать ... ПОДРОБНЕЕ...

Пустыня Негев
Автор: Юрий Бриль   
05 Июля 2010

А если учесть, что я набил мозоли и едва передвигал ноги, то располагаться к ночлегу надо было немедля. Однако тропа делала заманчивую петлю, арканила гору – еще усилие, подтянуться, приподняться – и сделать кадр уже с другой, гораздо более высокой точки. Я сделал заветный кадр с «Мыса Каменного», как я нарек эту открытую мной мицпе, а меня все равно тянуло дальше, уже рукой подать до северного обрыва котловины. Было бы интересно пройти восемь километров поперек, найти место, где можно спуститься вниз, чтобы… О черт!.. – запнулся о камень. На ногах устоял, но от резкого движения в правой руке молнией полоснула боль, да так, что в глазах потемнело – перед самым отъездом вдоволь намахался колуном на даче, готовя на зиму дрова, и что-то в плече основательно повредил – сигнал оказался достаточно вразумительным, чтобы остановиться, повернуть наконец назад. Теперь я ступал осторожно, ставя ноги на подушки вздувшихся мозолей. Пустоватый рюкзак напоминал о себе нудной болью в плечах, пошатывало от усталости. Тропа, едва приметная днем, стала и вовсе неразличима. Вряд ли мне грозило потеряться в пустыне: слева ограничивала сама впадина, следовало идти краем и не слишком удаляться от нее, хотя тут было гораздо больше камней. Ночь выдалась на удивление светлой: зависла где-то над Мицпе Рамоном полная луна, слабо на синем небе искрились звезды. Заметно похолодало, ветер усилился. Я все еще вглядывался в пустыню, стараясь запомнить, впитать увиденное, – и вдруг она глянула на меня. И взгляд этот был глубоким, пронизывающим до самого дна души. Стыло и неприютно. Невнятная тревога заставила обернуться – уже спиной, до мурашек на коже, ощутил присутствие какой-то враждебной силы… Обернулся и увидел мерцавшие из глубины пустыни фары. Гиены, их было четверо, двигались цепью. Кажется, они не торопились, перебирали лапами немногим быстрее меня, хотя известно, могут бегать со скоростью 60 км в час. Будь я даже в хорошей спортивной форме, драпать от них не имело смысла. Думаю, они подметили, в каком я состоянии. Забавно было, наверно, смотреть на мою походку командора со стороны: ноги поднимал высоко, ставил их махом на всю ступню. Я заставил себя выпрямиться, подтянул повыше рюкзак, попытался идти ровно. Они могли настигнуть меня в считанные минуты, но выжидали, понимая и то, что помощи мне ждать неоткуда, а сил, конечно, не прибавится. …………….. Мягко коснулся лица солнечный лучик. Еще не открыв глаза, увидел свою комнату, склонившуюся надо мной чайную розу, которая частенько радовала меня неожиданно взорвавшимся красным цветком, услышал дыхание моего друга Найка. Пес лизнул меня за ухом, деликатно намекая, что пора выгуливать… какое-то краткое время я наслаждался сознанием, что вся эта фантасмагория с гиенами – бредовый сон. Однако в этом ощущении безоблачного покоя вдруг закралась тревога: что-то не так – ну да, конечно, моего друга Найка нет, похоронил. Открыл глаза – луч света, вполне настоящий, просачивался сквозь ветхую стенку пещеры. Продвинулся дальше вглубь и увидел дырку побольше, такое маленькое оконце. Передо мной предстал во всей своей огромности и великолепии кратер Махтеш Рамон. Небо уже посветлело, солнце поднималось, ломая цепь обрывистых гор, растекаясь кровавой киноварью по всему восточному краю; обнажены, цветисто светились глубинные недра – от радикально черного до охристого и бледно-розового клубились пары, варилась геологическая история. Две с лишним сотни миллионов лет – человеческая жизнь – лишь мгновение, вспышка в ночи. Я исследовал пещеру самым тщательным образом, дырка была слишком мала, чтобы в нее протиснуться, но если б я и протиснулся, то летел бы триста метров вниз. Я вернулся к своей баррикаде, вынул несколько камней, чтобы посмотреть на своих врагов, оценить соотношение сил. Из резко очерченных черных ноздрей шел пар. Внимательные глаза смотрели в мою сторону. Сутулая так и стояла на трех лапах, поджав одну переднюю, как любимую, смотрела в мою сторону, мне показалось, устало и укоризненно. Мы встретились глазами, она покрутилась на месте, ища удобное между камней место, прилегла, лизнула ушибленную лапу. И это я понял как знак к тому, что осада предполагается длительная. Были такие случаи в истории. Римляне осаждали крепость Масаду несколько лет, и когда иудеи поняли, что конец неизбежен, они убили жен и детей, убили себя, чтобы враги не надругались над ними. Мне тоже надо было выбирать одно из двух зол. Я уже подступался к подобной проблеме. Слабеть на больничной койке и умирать в больнице мне категорически не хотелось. Господу было угодно продлить мои дни. Однако увечье, которое нанесла мне родная медицина, спасая меня, таково, что жизнь уже воспринималась как тяжелая каждодневная работа. И я все чаще задумывался о неизбежном отдыхе. Ни в коем случае я не стремился к нему, однако легко расстался с нажитой с годами осторожностью. Бесшабашность инвалида – это тоже, согласитесь, нелепость. Ведь можно стать еще более глубоким инвалидом. Нет уж, если рисковать, то по самому большому счету. Я вынул из рюкзака свои запасы. Три яблока, апельсин, немного орехов. Побултыхал коробку с соком – есть еще с пол-литра. Подкрепившись, я почувствовал себя вполне здоровым и крепким. Вооружился алюминиевым колышком от палатки, полез к окошку и попробовал колупнуть камень. Желто-серый известняк сам расслаивался; стоило его поддеть, крошился, просыпался мелким щебнем и песком. Не составляло особого труда расширить оконце настолько, чтобы пролезть в него. Я работал неторопливо, увлеченно, находя удовольствие следить, как отлетают куски породы и с грохотом падают в пропасть. Было реально найти еще один выход из положения: я мог последовать за этими камнями. Вариант остаться в пещере и ждать спасения извне я даже не рассматривал. Без воды долго не протянешь – мучительная голодная смерть? Нет, уж лучше сразу. Несколько ниже, в метрах двух, я увидел каменный карниз. Недолго думая просунулся ногами вперед и спарашютировал на него, обрушив с собою груду камней. Путь назад был отрезан. Я вдохнул полной грудью, солнце уже поднялось высоко, Махтеш Рамон опять предстал передо мной во всем своем потрясающем великолепии. Ветер напористо дул в лицо, хлопал полами раскрыленной ветровки. Пьянящий восторг и гордое сознание того, что я смог, решился, сделаю этот последний шаг. Замру от счастья на несколько секунд полета – все и больше ничего – вечность. Я пополню собой замечательный гербарий, который собирала здесь природа миллионы лет. Мое место отныне среди аммонитов, брахиоподов, древних черепах и ракообразных, что ползали и плавали в мировом океане, окаменели и остались в истории Земли навсегда. Возможно, и я впечатаюсь в камень. Я был в своем уме, относительном здравии и, как мне казалось, на вершине духа. И был бы разочарован, если бы в этот момент надо мной завис спасательный вертолет и спугнул торжественный момент. Я пошел по карнизу, выбирая место, откуда должен был стартовать в манящую глубину. По карнизу можно было пройти еще с десяток метров, далее он сужался и обрывался вовсе. Я посмотрел наверх – мои неотступные друзья гиены провожали поверху. – Ну что, съели!?.. – торжествовал я. – Вот вам на завтрак, – и я подбросил бейсболку. Бейсболка не долетела до поверхности самую малость. Мой лучший друг Скинхед дернулся, чтобы схватить ее зубами, почва под задними лапами подломилась – и он вместе с камнями и бейсболкой грохнулся в пропасть. Ветер как-то сразу стих, крылья моей ветровки опустились. Глянул вниз – и испугался – меня повело, я едва удержался, чтобы не последовать примеру своего врага. От резкого движения пронзило болью в руке, колени дрожали, прошибло потом, защипало залитые им глаза. Бухавший во мне победный оркестр замолк, и я как-то сразу сдулся в собственной значимости и исключительности. Гиены провожали своего подельника долгим соболезнующим взглядом. Черная морда бандерши отлипла от края пропасти, и за ней враз как по команде приподняли морды и все остальные. ………………….. Теперь я продвинулся до самого края карниза, здесь можно было стоять только прижавшись к стене. Ниже, гораздо ниже и правее, я отследил три идущие уступом один за другим каменных столбика. Подо мной стена уже не была строго отвесной – горный отвал, сыпуха, измельченная до состояния щебенки порода. Если смотреть только перед собой, а не заглядывать под ноги, то совсем не страшно. Я шагнул на эту сыпучую зыбкую почву, ставя ботинок ребром, чуть проехал вниз, закрепился, точно так же поставив ребром и другой ботинок. Шагнул, закрепился еще, еще… Сыпуха ползла вниз, однако я перебирал ногами и также двигался в сторону заветного каменного столбика. Я скользил все быстрее, и прежде чем меня увлек гудящий селевой поток, рванулся, плашмя упал на спасительный каменный буек. Лавина песка и камня, грохоча, прокатилась подо мной. Мой расчет оказался точным, теперь я мог продвинуться по горизонтали, подстраховываясь тут и там торчащими надежными скалистыми выступами. Если мне удастся преодолеть врезавшийся в котловину узкий каньончик, тогда я выйду к одному из самых пологих спусков впадины, где раньше проходила туристская тропа. Живя на Урале, я немало полазил по горам, видел достаточно и других гор, но эти горы ни на какие мне известные не походили. Здесь требовалась особая осторожность, и нужно было крепко подумать, прежде чем за что-то схватиться, куда-то наступить. Каньончик крепкой скальной породы внушал доверие. Тщательно рассчитав все свои движения, все камни, на которые я должен наступить и за которые я должен схватиться, я решил, что вполне смогу пройти по горизонтали. За каньоном открылся несколько иной пейзаж, который меня приятно удивил. Туристская тропа оказалась ближе, чем я предполагал. Спускаясь по крутому косогору, она делала стремительные зигзаги. Несколько участков сохранили деревянные лестницы. Самая верхняя лестница тянулась ко мне снизу и не дотягивалась до меня. Я прыгнул на сыпучую песчаную кручу, схватился за лестницу, забрался на нее и начал медленно спускаться. Она тряслась подо мной, ерзала, предупреждая о своей полной ненадежности. Как я ни старался быть невесомым, мне не удалось – лестница поехала, верхний конец ее оборвал крепление и стал съезжать, скребясь о скалу. Хорошо еще, что она более надежно была закреплена снизу, и это ей мешало хрястнуться со всего размаха. Лестница замирала в своем смертельном медленном скольжении, вновь страгивалась с места, скребла по скале, наконец зацепившись за круглый каменный выступ, похожий на балкон, замерла. Я мог пробраться по лестнице к этому балкончику, до него было рукой подать. А дальше что? Путь тупиковый. Куда перспективнее было переправиться по лестнице к нижнему ее креплению. Там тропа продолжалась крутыми спусками, обрывками лестниц. Лестница потрескивала подо мной, покачивалась, готовая провалиться каждую секунду. Я передвигался медленно, стараясь не делать резких движений. На самой середине она опасно прогнулась и затрещала, конец, опиравшийся на балкон, сдвинулся, задрался готовый соскользнуть вниз. Уняв дрожь, я восстановил равновесие, пополз с величайшей осторожностью. Одно резкое движение – и я рухну вниз вместе с лестницей. Лестница перестала угрожающе трещать, однако ее опасный верхний конец еще сдвинулся на несколько сантиметров. Наконец я спешился с лестницы. Утвердившись на земле, я с наслаждением пнул лестницу – и этого несильного удара было достаточно, чтобы она скользнула вниз, ударилась о каменный выступ, разлетелась на куски. Довольно долго и без особых хлопот я спускался по каменистому склону, забирая то влево, то вправо, следуя тропе. Без особых приключений преодолел два лестничных пролета. Дальше косогор. Было очевидно, что без страховочной веревки спуститься по нему невозможно. Я присел, размышляя о непоследовательности тех, кто обустраивал тропу. Там лестница, а тут ее нет. Где логика? Внимательно разглядывая вновь возникшее непреодолимое препятствие, я увидел прибитый к камню отрезок каната. Так, держась за него, можно было продолжить спуск. Те, кто обустраивал эту тропу, оказались весьма предусмотрительны, с помощью этих нехитрых канатных держалок я почти и достиг дна котлована. Оставалось каких-то тридцать метров. Но каких?! Отвесная стенка, даже с небольшим отрицательным отклонением. Я ходил по краю обрыва, чувствуя себя одураченным. Так не бывает, так не должно быть… Битый час я размышлял над превратностями судьбы, потом заглянул вниз и увидел железные скобы, вбитые одна под другой, – они являли собой чудесную лестницу, по которой можно было спуститься. Я не сразу и глазам поверил, а спускаясь, все равно ожидал подвоха. Кончатся скобы посередине или вывернется какая-нибудь плохо приколоченная? Но нет, обошлось. Наконец я утвердился на горизонтальной плоскости, самом дне кратера. В горле пересохло от жажды, губы потрескались. Черт побери, разве я не заслуживал глотнуть сока и малость отдохнуть?! Я сидел на песке, прижавшись спиной к скале, глядя на подсыхавшее русло ручья. Ручей в пустыне – тут его называют нахаль – живет недолго, русло ручья – свежее воспоминание о дожде – было влажным. С высоты овражек казался неглубоким, но сейчас я видел, что он достаточно глубок и извилист. Вдоль него росло довольно много тамариска, и я подумал, что надо бы обследовать деревья. Если повезет, найду манну. Ту самую манну, которой Господь питал иудеев во время их скитаний по пустыне. Если Моисей и его народ собирали манну, которая сыпалась с неба, то бедуины соскребали ее по весне с тамариска. И в скудной жизни бедуинов есть свои радости. Я, кажется, немного отмяк и уже начинал вкушать их: отдыхал и наслаждался пейзажем, находя его по-марсиански живописным. Как красиво змеился овраг, сколь прихотливы его изгибы и прорезанные водой в склонах ветвистые морщинки, которые точила годами, как слезы, скупая влага пустыни. По склонам цвели фиалки и журавлики. Чуть тронутые фиолетом кустики обозначали путь к подножию черной горы. В котловане было несколько черных гор, эта самая большая. Хотя на глаз истинные ее размеры определить было невозможно в силу присутствующей здесь масштабной несоразмерности, человек в ней терялся и делал неправильные выводы. С точки, откуда я смотрел, гора казалась большой, даже величественной, – отлитое древним вулканом огромное животное, оно по-кошачьи уютно свернулось клубком и дремало до скончания времен. Были еще горы, но, по сути, они находились в яме, размеры которой были таковы, что эти горы можно было представить горками, холмами или просто неровностями дна. 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