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Возвращение в Эдем. Это было в Кении, в парке Накуру
Автор: Юрий Бриль   
09 Марта 2012

cherepaha

Честно говоря, я терялся, когда меня спрашивали, а чего это вы в Африку собрались? Так просто, взяли и собрались. Приехали, а потом догнало – зачем и почему.  Это было в Кении, в парке Накуру, на озерах Накуру и Богория.

Что хорошо в Кении, разрешается въезжать в парк на своей машине. И мы въехали на своей «японке» и на своем Дэвиде. От Найроби на северо-запад надо было проехать 300 с лишним километров. Выбравшись из тесного Найроби, погнали, обгоняя всех и каждого, кто смел появиться и маячить впереди нас. И вдруг остановились, потому что обнаружился еще один участник дорожного движения, которого Дэвид не стал обгонять, хотя тот и двигался на недопустимо низкой скорости. Это была огромная черепаха. Сначала мы ее сфотографировали на память, а потом бесцеремонно, взявшись втроем за панцирь, уволокли прочь с дороги.

Ехали долго и без особых приключений, так что я даже задремал. И если бы не Дэвид, мог бы проспать одно важное событие. Он остановился и торжественно объявил:

–  Экватор.

Мы подъехали к экватору. Точка на линии экватора была обозначена железной конструкцией с вращающимся земным шаром. Покрутили земной шарик, я достал компас. Проверить, а не обман ли это? Стрелка дергалась, как припадочная. А что ей делать, если 0 градусов широты? Впрочем, компас часто вел себя загадочно. Скорее, потому, что он был китайским. Его следовало выбросить сразу, а не потом, как я это сделал.

peliЧто хорошо в парке Накуру, так это то, что разрешается выйти из машины и промяться. Мы вывалились из машины у самого озера, которое разливалось на многие мили, окруженное тропическим лесом и саванной. Перед нами на мелководье плескались пеликаны. Какой-то странный птичий ритуал – приседали, окунались, трясли крыльями, вскидывали их к небу. Будто сто лет воды не видели, – с таким азартом и такой первобытной радостью они предавались купанию. Или они так молились своему пернатому Богу, благодарили за счастье жить на белом свете. Серега несколько отступил, чтобы брызги не залетали в объектив, установил на штатив камеру, а я пошел по берегу, местами топкому, местами песчаному и твердому. Пеликаны планировали над зеркальной плавящейся на солнце гладью, летели навстречу, едва ли не касаясь меня и обдавая поющим в огромных крыльях ветром. Идя вдоль берега, я встречал много всяких птиц, и далеко не всех узнавал по пернатому облаченью. Пролетела птица-носорог с рыбкой в клюве, разбежались передо мной в траве перепелки. В отдалении паслись венценосные журавли. А по озеру впереди меня плыло розовое облако – тысячи фламинго nosполоскали в озере клювы, при моем приближении снимались с места. Сначала одна, самая пугливая птица, за ней другая, и сразу несколько, все разом – розовое облако отлетало чуть дальше.

Дэвид кричал:

– Стой! Danger! Опасность! Нельзя!

Но я его не слышал – далековато отошел. Он ехал за мной на машине, но я все равно не слышал, потому что был оглушен клокочущими радостным проживанием жизни голосами. Я уже видел идущих на водопой антилоп, лакающего воду носорога… Я мог бы до него дотянуться до него из открытого окна машины. Заглядывал в глаза льву и видел, как жираф, возвышаясь над зонтиком колючей акации, тонким и длинным язычком подхватывал зеленые листочки. Особое ощущение: ты не один на божьем свете, рядом тысячи тысяч твоих собратьев, сколь непохожих друг на друга, столь и совершенных в красоте своей.  Все как в первые дни творения, в золотые деньки Эдема.

giravКак раз читал Стивена Оппенгеймера. «Изгнание из Эдема». Так вот, леди и джентльмены, факт научно доказанный: Африка – это колыбель человечества. Как раз здесь, на земле Великой Рифтовой Долины, оно возникло – неизвестно откуда и как, – здесь проживало, а потом со временем расселилось на другие континенты.

Бывает такое: проживешь жизнь на чужбине – и вдруг потянет на родину, в утраченный доисторический Эдем. 

 

 

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